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My partner lived on these in Singapore! The icecreams cost $1 Singapore and you get a thick rectangular chunk of yummy icecream wedged in between two wafers (or rainbow bread…but I eat so slowly I imagine it would go soggy for me :P). They had all kinds of flavours, from the traditional chocolate, raspberry swirl, mocha chip, to Durian, Honeydew, Red Bean and the Sweet Yam in the above photo (yes, it is purple, and yes, it is actually really nice!).

Mr Icecream Man...the photo is blurry because it was dark and I had no tripod (longer exposure = more shake :P) but I wanted to show it anyway 😀

You buy the icecream from street vendors like in the photo above. We found several vendors along Orchard Road, and there are often about 3-4 on Clarke Quay near the Swissotel Merchant Court (where we stayed). To get to the part of Clarke Quay I am talking about you can just get the MRT (mass rapid transit = underground train) to the Clarke Quay stop, then follow the signs that will take you to the Clarke Quay exit.

If you go to Singapore, make sure you get some of these cheap yummy treats. You will definitely feel like it with their hot weather!

We are in the last month of spring here in the southern hemisphere, and before we move into the sultry days of summer I thought I had better make the most of the spring flowers! Thanks to the late regular September showers there has been an abundance of flowers in my area. And who can’t feel sunny and happy looking at flowers?

Some of the flowers are starting to fade into the summer greens (goodbye dear Jasmine!), and for those of you in the northern hemisphere your autumn hues are going to change to the winter starkness. I think we all need some everlasting vibrant flowers to brighten up the place!

So here is the pattern for some simple super sweet everlasting spring flowers. I made flowers first from the delightful tutorial by maedchenmitherz (the pink and purple 6-petal flowers under my double flowers are from her pattern), then decided to adapt the pattern and make my own  smaller ones that followed the more amigurumi format for crocheting in a round.

Techniques

If you are new to crochet and/or amigurumi, this pattern is perfect for you. This pattern is simple, will teach you some of the main stitches used in amigurumi, and is so fast you can make lots of flowers to practice your stitches! Techniques used: magic circle, slip stitch, single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), and half double crochet (hdc). Note: US crochet stitch terminology is used.

Materials

* Yarn in any colour (you won’t need much – use up any scraps)
* Crochet Hook
* Any other materials to decorate (buttons, pins, hair ties, etc).

Pattern

Instructions

I have written out the basic instructions in the text for those of you who are familiar with the stitches involved. For those of you who are unsure or are still a beginner, the photos and the captions underneath will give you more detailed instructions. If you want a bigger photo, just click on it and it will take you to my flickr page where you can choose larger sizes 🙂

 

RND 1. How to make a Magic Circle: 1/ Wrap yarn around fingers to make a double loop, 2/ Insert hook under the double loop, yarn over, and pull back through. This first move does not count as a stitch. Continue by making 5 single crochets by hooking under the loop. 3/ When complete, remove circle from fingers. You can see the 5 stitches around the outside. Pull the yarn tail lighty until you see which loop pulls - pull this loop to make the other loop smaller. Keep doing this to make both loops pull in tight until you get... 4/ Your little circle! Starting from the hook, you should be able to count back the 5 stitches. Next: do a slip stitch to join to the first single crochet.

RND1: Make a 5 single crochet magic circle. Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the circle to join. You should now be able to identify 5 stitches around the circle.

RND2. The 10 single crochets - you can count them, starting from the hook. How to Single Crochet: insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through. You will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull those loops through. You just made a single crochet!

RND2: Make 2 single crochets into each of the 5 stitches around the circle. Repeat. You should now be able to see 10 stitches around the circle.

RND 3. How to Add Colour: 1/ You will need to add the new yarn in at the very first slip stitch for RND3. 2/ When you insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over with the new colour yarn (instead of your usual yarn), then pull through for your slip stitch. 3/ The yarn over your hook will now be your new colour, which you will use for the rest of the flower. 4/ When you turn over your flower, you can see the two yarn tails close together where you changed. Cut the old yarn and leave a small tail. The two small tails can be knotted together and the spare thread cut. The remaining new yarn (the yellow yarn leading out of the photo) will be used to crochet the rest of the flower.

RND3: Slip stitch into first stitch of the circle [for colour change see photo above]. Chain 2. In the next stitch along, do a double crochet and a half double crochet. This will create one petal (so for each petal you make, you will use two of the stitches in the circle).

RND3. The Petal: 1/ Do a slip stitch then chain 2 (don't do another slip stitch if you just did one for a colour change). 2/ Yarn over, insert hook through next stitch, then yarn over again. 3/ Pull through and you will have three loops on your hook. Yarn over again. Pull through the middle two loops on the hook. 4/ You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull those two loops through so you just have the one loop left. Steps 2-4= one double crochet!

RND3. The Petal: 5/ To make a half double crochet: Follow step 2 (in previous shot) , then do step 3 the same except that instead of pulling through just two loops, you will pull through all three. This will leave just one loop on the hook (so step 4 is unnecessary!). Hooray you have now made one petal!

You will need to repeat the steps for RND3 (i.e. slip stitch, chain 2, double crochet, half double crochet) until you have 5 petals total.

Slip stitch and finish off. Add buttons, beads, ribbon, and other embellishments as you please 🙂

You can use these flowers for many things. Add as embellishments to clothing, bags, hair pins, hair bands, journals, and more! String together to make a garland, attach hooks to make earrings, stitch a couple together with potpurri in the middle for your cupboard, or pop on your tree as Christmas decorations. What are some of your ideas?

Now make many, many more flowers in all different colours to make a whole garden!

Note: I developed this pattern myself, but it is so basic it would have been made many times before! I would still love a link and to see your creations in the comments if you found this helpful 😀 More information about pattern use here: https://amysodyssey.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/my-crochet-patterns/

~~Emily Dickinson

Some inspiration and positive thoughts for you today 🙂 Think about what makes you smile and what makes you feel loved… feel those positive feelings, let them build up inside you… now go let them loose in the world!

Thousands of candles can be lighted from a single candle,
and the life of a candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared.

~Buddha~

Hello Again!

I have returned from the lovely land of Singapore, all shopped out and ready to post about my adventures! I also cannot wait to get back into my amigurumi, especially now that my beginner crochet hands had a nice holiday too. Lookout for more from me soon!

Oliver taking a nap on his favourite rock...luckily its cloudy or hed be hiding in his burrow!

Oliver taking a nap on his favourite rock...luckily it's cloudy or he'd be hiding in his burrow!

Meet Oliver the baby Amigurumi Wombat! Oliver is a very inquisitive wombat who loves to snuffle about the place, and his favourite things are sleeping, digging holes, messing up my stuff, and eating flowers.

Wombats are one of my favourite animals, so when I couldn’t find a free amigurumi pattern online I just had to make my own! These Australian mammals are herbivores who live in burrows and typically come out at night to go about their business. As a wombat’s young are raised in the pouch of a female until about 6 months, they are more specifically classified as marsupials. There are three main species of wombat that live in south-eastern Australia, although some small pockets of them still apparently exist in south-west Australia. Being a West-Aussie I have never seen them in the wild – only in the zoo.

As cute as wombats look, they would not make very good pets (I have to come to terms with that ;)). They are about a metre long and weigh about 20-35kg. Although they move slowly, if threatened they can sprint short bursts up to 40km/h and won’t hesitate to attack you! Their powerful back legs can give you a nice swift kick, their sharp teeth and claws can give you a severe gouge, and their size and weight can bowl an adult human over at a run. Wikipedia offers some funny (but very useful) advice: “Humans who accidentally find themselves in an affray with a wombat may find it best to scale a tree until the animal calms and leaves.

They are quite clever and can be tamed somewhat to be patted and cuddled, but they have strong instincts so even if they have been bred in captivity they can still be released into the wild to thrive. Fortunately for you, my amigurumi wombats have been bred to enjoy your love and home environment! To find out how to breed your very own wombat, read on below.

I thought wombats couldnt climb trees...

I thought wombats couldn't climb trees...

Baby Wombat Amigurumi Pattern

My patterns are written down as I create my amigurumi, but let me know if there is anything missing. This is quite a general pattern and could easily be adapted to make other animals (e.g. pig, bear, etc).

Techniques

You will need to know how to crochet in the round and sew separate items together. See my Amygurumi page for details if you get stuck!

Materials

Wombat fur can range from cream to grey, brown, or black, so you have a choice of colours to choose from. But of course, your wombat can be whatever colour you choose!

* Yarn (one colour for whole wombat)
* Stuffing/filler (I used polyfill/polyester fibre)
* Crochet Hook
* Yarn Needle
* Materials for eyes and nose (purchased plastic ones, ones made of wool or tapestry yarn, felt, etc)

Pattern

Note: US crochet stitch terminology is used. ch=chain, sc=single crochet (US), 2sc in next sc=increase, sc2tog=decrease (crochet two sc together to make one sc). I use the invisible decrease method for all decreases.

Wombat: Head/Body

RND1:  4sc magic circle [4]
RND2:  sc in next 1 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [6]
RND3:  2sc in next sc. Repeat [12]
RND4:  sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [14]
RND5:  sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [16]
RND6:  sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [20]
RND7:  20 sc around [20]
RND8:  sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [16]
RND9:  sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [14]  **stuff head**
RND10: sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [16]
RND11: sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [18]
RND12: 18 sc around [18]
RND13: sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [20]
RND14: sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc. Repeat [24]
RND15: 24 sc around [24]
RND16: 24 sc around [24]
RND17: 24 sc around [24]
RND18: 24 sc around [24]
RND19: 24 sc around [24]
RND20: sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [20]
RND21: sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [18]
RND22: sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [16]
RND23: sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog. Repeat [12] **stuff body**
RND24: sc2tog. Repeat [6]

Finish off, put yarn tail inside body.

Wombat: Ears (make 2)

RND1:  5sc magic circle [5]

Slip stitch, cut yarn with plenty spare. Squish ear together so the third stitch will be the “point” of the ear. Tie the two threads at the bottom together, and sew this bit to head.

Wombat: Feet (make 4)

RND1:  4sc magic circle [4]
RND2:  2sc in next sc. Repeat [8]
RND3:  8 sc around [8]
RND4:  8 sc around [8]

Slip stitch, cut yarn with plenty spare. Sew each foot to body.

Wombat: Finishing Touches

Create and attach eyes and nose to wombat, and even stitch a small mouth beneath the nose if you like. You may also want to create and add other decorative touches to pretty up your wombat (they do like to be spoilt) – perhaps a nice flower, scarf, button, or hat?

Now you have your very own little Aussie wombat! Why not make a whole family of them to forage round your house?

Oliver in his flowers

Oliver in his flowers

Note: You are free to use this pattern to make as many wombats (and similar animals) as you like, but please do not post this pattern anywhere else. If you follow my pattern and  blog about it I would appreciate a link back to my website (so others can make it too!). I do not mind if you sell items you make from my patterns, but please be fair and acknowledge the pattern source. More information about pattern use here: https://amysodyssey.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/my-crochet-patterns/

Miss Octopus the Amigurumi

Miss Octopus showing off her garden

Miss Octopus showing off her garden

Miss Octopus in her pretty pearls is surrounded by her beautiful garden. While she is ever so cultured and refined, she is always kind to her neighbours and will offer a seaweed tea and coral biscuit to any who stop by.

Taking a break from creating two amigurumi projects myself, Miss Octopus was made from the free and very simple amigurumi pattern provided at the flickr group page Octopus Revolution. She was great fun to make and customise, so make sure you check out the pattern and all the other octopus photos in the flickr group photo pool.

Miss Octopus having a cup of seaweed tea.

Miss Octopus having a cup of seaweed tea.

Dizzy of the Yolkfolk

Dizzy of the Yolkfolk

Dizzy, the amazing yolkfolk citizen and explorer, is the star of many classic video games like “Dizzy: The Ultimate Cartoon Adventure” and “Fantasy World Dizzy”. This egg with his red gloves and boots, runs and flips about the game as you accomplish the required tasks. My partner used to enjoy Treasure Island Dizzy as a child, a bright colourful game that came with its share of annoying game mechanics. This amigurumi was designed and made by me for him (he does get spoilt 😛 ), and now the pattern is available here free for you as well! Once you know how to make the basic Dizzy, you can easily change the facial features and add accessories to make other Yolkfolk characters.

Dizzy and the Yolkfolk

Dizzy and the Yolkfolk

Don’t know (or care!) who Dizzy is? Well that doesn’t matter, as you can use this pattern to make your own eggs or egg characters! I looked at some amigurumi egg patterns online when I was trying to work out how to make Dizzy, but sadly they were all too small and narrow. So I had to make my own – and my own little hands/gloves and boots.

Dizzy Amigurumi Pattern

I wrote my pattern down as I was making my Dizzy so all instructions should be correct – but let me know if there is anything missing. Note: I have used the US crochet stitch terminology.

Techniques

You will need to know techniques to crochet in the round: magic circle, single crochet, increase, decrease, single crochet in one loop of a stitch only, and how to finish off. You also need to know how to stuff an amigurumi and cut out felt! For information about these techniques visit my Amygurumi page.

Materials

To make Dizzy, you will need the following colours. If you just want to make an egg or egg character, use whatever you feel like!

* White Yarn
* Red Yarn
* Scrap amounts of Black and White Felt
* Craft Glue (suitable for attaching felt to yarn)
* Stuffing/filler (I used polyfill/polyester fibre)
* Crochet Hook (I used 3.5mm)
* Yarn Needle (needle with hole big enough to thread yarn through)
* Optional: I used 2 x Flat Marbles in the boots to give them weight and help Dizzy stand up.

Dizzy looking for adventure...

Dizzy looking for adventure...

Pattern

To make Dizzy, you will need to make:
1 x Egg/Body (white yarn)
2 x Gloves (red yarn)
2 x Feet (red yarn)

Dizzy: Egg/Body

Note: ch=chain, sc=single crochet (US), 2sc in next sc=increase, sc2tog=decrease (crochet two sc together to make one sc). I use the invisible decrease method for all decreases.

RND1:  6 sc magic circle [6]
RND2:  2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat. [8]
RND3:  2sc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat 3 more times [12]
RND4:  2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat 3 more times [16]
RND5:  2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. Repeat 3 more times [20]
RND6:  20 sc around [20]
RND7:  2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc. Repeat 4 more times [24]
RND8:  24 sc around [24]
RND9:  24 sc around [24]
RND10: 24 sc around [24]
RND11: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. Repeat 5 more times [30]
RND12: 30 sc around [30]
RND13: 30 sc around [30]
RND14: 30 sc around [30]
RND15: 30 sc around [30]
RND16: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. Repeat 5 more times [24]
RND17: 24 sc around [24]
RND18: sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat 5 more times [18]
RND19: sc2tog, sc in next sc. Repeat 5 more times [12]
(**fill the egg with polyfill stuffing by this point**)
RND20: sc2tog, sc in next sc. Repeat 2 more times [6]

Sew up the opening. Fasten off, sew in remaining yarn tail.

Dizzy: Hands

RND1:  6 sc magic circle [6]
RND2:  2sc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat two more times [9]
RND3:  9 sc around [9]
RND4:  9 sc around [9]
RND5:  9 sc around [9]
RND6:  sc2tog, sc in next sc. Repeat two more times [6]

Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Dizzy: Boots

Additional Note: at RND3 only, do each of the 12 sc in the Front Loop (this means that without adjusting your crochet circle, you will be crocheting in the inside loop of the circle stitches only). This will leave a nice ridge around the outside of the shoe to help define and make the base flatter.

RND1:  6 sc magic circle [6]
RND2:  2sc in each sc [12]
RND3:  12 sc around [12]
RND4:  12 sc around [12]
RND5:  12 sc around [12]
RND6:  sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc [10]
(**Put in flat-bottomed marble**)
RND7:  sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc [8]
RND8:  8 sc around [8]

Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Dizzy: Eyes & Mouth

You will need to look at my photos to see the shapes I used, which I based off pixelated screenshots of Dizzy’s eyes. They are tricky to describe, so look at my photos. You may also want to print and cut out eyes and mouth from the photos/screenshots as templates. How to make them:

Eyes
1) Cut out the black felt eye background, which is like two ovals stuck together in the middle. The ovals get wider towards the bottom outer edge, and narrower towards the top outer edge.
2) Cut out the two white felt eyes. The eyes are oval shaped, with a flatter inner edge, narrower top outer edge, and wider bottom outer edge.
3) Cut out the two black felt pupils, which are just small circles.
4) Glue the white eyes onto the black background. Cut around the black eye background felt if needed to make the outside edge even. Glue the pupils on to the white eyes.
Mouth
5) Cut out the mouth from the black felt. It is basically a straight line that curves up at the ends. Compared to the eyes, it will be approximately the width of the outside edge of the white parts of the eyes.

Back view of Dizzy

Back view of Dizzy

Dizzy: Assembly

When assembling Dizzy’s parts, remember the narrower part of the egg (where you started) is the top, and the widest part of the egg (where you finished) is the bottom.

Face

1) Glue the eyes and mouth onto Dizzy.

Hands

2) Because you have crocheted the hands in a round without joining, you will see that they are a slightly uneven shape. Squash the hands around a bit until one edge appears slightly longer than the other – this will be the top edge of the hand when attached to Dizzy. It is hard to explain, so check my photos!

3) Sew a hand onto each side of Dizzy. The hands are positioned halfway down the egg (between the eyes and mouth). The open end of the hands (i.e. where you finished crocheting the hands) are sewn on to the body using the leftover yarn on the hands.

Boots

4) Before you sew on the boots, see if you can balance Dizzy on top of his boots – this will give you an idea of the best place to position then to ensure Dizzy stands up without additional support.

5) Sew the top of the boots to the bottom side of the egg. Make sure the boots are facing forward (the back of the boots is a long straight edge and where your yarn finished, the front has the bulge).

Dizzy, or your egg character, should now be complete!

Dizzy to Scale

Dizzy to Scale

Note: You are free to use this pattern to make as many eggs as you like, but please do not post this pattern anywhere else. If you follow my pattern and  blog about it I would appreciate a link back to my website (so others can make it too!). More information about pattern use here: https://amysodyssey.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/my-crochet-patterns/

While I do not mind if you sell eggs and egg characters you make from this pattern, do not sell any Dizzy characters you make. Dizzy and other characters from the Dizzy games are copyright their respective owners, so trying to make money off it would be bad!